True color of LiJiang & Shangrila & YuiBeng, Yunnan VisitChina2011

Think you can handle every trip you have planned? Some of us may not. Most visitors to Yunnan are pouring into hotspots where swamped by tones of tourists. A few made it to the remote places like we do. Shangrila was the worst in term of energy consumption by far I have had. That can be the reason - least of people & more of nature conserved. Being drawn by the great name in the memo of travel, I have no doubt to go once Ruff proposed.

It happened 6 months ago towards ETD. I ran & walked in the hope to build up a steady stamina in cope up with this trip. Still, I run & walk these days after returning from trip. Training was proven workable but inadequate after all. Bad luck stroke me a week b4 traveling. My waist was fractured in a freak bicycle accident. With the ViSa and air ticket at hand, this trip went on.

Day 1. Ben, Ruff & I set off with full enthusiasm to xplore the Shangrila. Arriving Kunming airport, we have half day before catching the next train to LiJiang. The sub-episode spent on KunMing Lake. It is known as the winter shelter for migrating birds. Standing tall on the mountain/XiShan, I oversaw the whole township of Kunming. Pananomic view was a great enjoyment in that cosy evening sunset.
Taking up a train in China is the most sought and reliable for reaching overnight destination. Ruff ever said," it is more punctual than a plane". Indeed, I found no reason to object it. Better, it cuts yr overnight expenses while still "on the wheel". Except I wasn't accustom to the locomotion noise rumbled thru out that night. Or may have been my excitement for this trip kept me fr slumber.

Day 2-3. In the woke of silent cabin, I have arrived LiJiang. Time was dawn while most asleep still. LiJiang station looked new on mirrorlike marble tile & smaller than SG airport but still big enough to walk about. Amazingly, station staffs kept shutting-off passengers to the exit in a explosive loud manner of broadcasting. They must have sought for more resting time by closing the station at dawn.

LiJiang GuCheng barely open while we arrived. The GuCheng was big and confused by lots of sub stonny routes to no way. We stepped into it from south gate in a very early morning. It was cool by just walking into any alley of this time capsuled town. None of the eyesights would have suggested that you were in modern day. The chinese hanging lanterns, unique ancient facades, the esthetical roofs & the sculptured wooden doors or windows frames or the aging willows, plus the pebble stones pavement in continuous sights would throw you back in 500yrs old at the least. Sewages grewn with water plants were seem clear as little streams run thru within town.

I was be intrigued under such an enormous township once ever existed. Yet the very first breakfasts was a long way come to pleasant. We checked in one of the many home stays in our way. They all looks in similarity. First thing come to my mind, I tucked away in bed for couple hours in figuring what next. Hours past, we were visiting ShuHei. Another close by ancient town where I found little differences than GuCheng. Both town were seem in slow tempo. Perfect place for day-dreaming. 30 min away fr LiJiang, we have headed for the main ancient trade routes - ChaMaGuDao where cargoes, mainly loads of tea were used to transport between Vietnam,Tibet and . An abandoned forest trail that remains as a horse riding track for tourists these day. The perspective of adjacent Lake LaShiHai was surrounded by nearby mountains. Twinkling like a jewel in the garden of Eden.



Day 4-6. Shang we came for and Shang we shall go to. Set off early in the morning in a hired car. There were a few places caught our eyes while on the way. A hillside little temple that located jus outskirts of the LiJiang. The grand perspective of canyon was overwhelming. A picturesque masterpiece was simply up for grabs. A few hrs driving, we walked down to the SanFuTiaoXia in witnessing the enormous strength of the upper ZhangJiang river's gushing currents. The density of river even in the normal day plus the gusting wind combo would blow simply one away. As our car elevated gradually, cooler air felt. Snowy peak mountain was sighted finally in a far distance. Landscape has turned into greater plain after hrs of elevation where yaks, horse and goats were running freely in the field. That would b the time you know in Shangrila province.
Effortlessly, we have checked into a home stay - "Tibetan Garden" in Shangrila GuCheng. Only this time, the ancient town was so much smaller that previous we have stayed. Sense of harmony filled in the air. Abt 7 pm daily at the town square, make-shift traders/ hawkers would give way to an impressive tibetan dancing. Either you are a locals or foreigners, young or old, the atmosphere was inviting for one in participating the dance in a big circle. Fun & laughter were filled in the moment. The dance ended in a couple of hrs later. The square returned into calmness when people dispersed slowly in the night.
Air was thin at this altitude(3400+m). We were catching our breaths in getting used to it. We rest with no plan for following day. Freezing air took to our toe, it seems like having a hot chocolate & tucked into our beds was the best way to past the time.
Third day, we went off to Putatso National Park. A place that can not missed in Shangrila. We hav hiked abt 7km+ along two sections of this fossil parks. Streams finds way to converge, the falling logs on the turquoise lake, decaying woods laid amidst the lush shaddy tundra all reflected the ages of this natural secluded park itself.
The rays hardly escaped out from tensed clouds. The forest was a sponge that extracts water from the fog all year round. Occasionally showering added moisture to this already humid wetland. Darks creatures would hav crept out when night fall. However, It was an easy going & light hearted trek built on a wooden platform on daytime. We were all soaky wet at later the day. Partially from the rain drops and partially our sweat after hiking in many hrs. Cameras were victimized from the showering. Finger were numb in this weather. But we were content on the way back.

To discover a plateau, we arrived NaPaHai. The wetland turns into an icy lake during winter. But it was a full grown grass plateau with horses and cow grazing in the varsity. Wild flowers flourished the land with colors. Scent of lavender mesmerized the air. Whistle of cow bells coherent in close range. Bees were too busy in harvesting. The divine was unrealistic and not far to heaven on earth. We spent our lunch in a local Tibetan family whom we met on the plain. That unexpected invitation sent a warmth welcome in our heart.

Day 7-11: Bus went north with greater in latitude. Along the way was how man vs nature in competing to build a safe passage to getting around. Road was bad in the possibility of landslide anytime. Much of it was mud-like and one single way. At one point our bus retrieved 50m in yielding for opposite trucks. Construction was on going and seen never-ending. Dust covered camera lens. Yet looking far out, the panoramic views were great. Vegetation turned into oak, pine and even baldness hill-tops. Mountains overlapped and was disappearing far out. Clouds were seen lowering within reach. Snowy mountain was not far and more approachable by now. The sky showed a dense hue blue. Mountains by mountains were thrown behind our bus. Yaks were seen while resting or wandering on the road like they were born freely. It wasn't too hard to get in a room with great mountains view at Flying Temple.
We have the best room ever on that trip. Not the amenity but the surreal view. MeiLi, a sacred mountain in Tibetan belief, was right in front of our room. Tempt dropped further by the evening showering. Rainbow showed its face before darkness devoured. I stood still in awe and in admiration with such a beauty composition. At that night, I slept little in reviewing what i caught on cameras last few day. Breakfast was not a surprise - again it was the hard boiled eggs and pita bread. A repetition of last few days. The hilly driveway was scenic & refreshing. We reached XiDan village - a place that we must start hiking for 7hrs before arriving next town YuiBeng. That was the ultimate "Lost in horizontal" we were looking for. We were eagerly to uncover what made of Shangrila.
Hiking started in no time. It was an uphill slope that went in hrs. Locals that have seen walking with us from the beginning were now disappearing at sight. The trail was never ending even after a few hrs has past. We were put to the test of our strength. Tracks have splited into many paths that went to the same direction - YuiBeng. Mules were transporting main goodies into villages. With constantly muscle stretching against the slopes, Ben cramped both his legs at last. It must be a terrible ordeal for him in completing the trail. Things were getting less enjoyable as fatigue slowly seeped in. Conversation seemed lessen at this point. There was only one thing in mind, that was to get it over as quickly as possible. We finally made it to SanYuiBeng after a 7 hrs ordeal later. I straight to snore while still sitting in the kitchen cum dinning hall, a common place for this Tibetan home stay we have checked in. Dinner was served in a traditional Tibetan way. Porks & sausages were dry-hung abv. the kitchen beams & sliced straight away & served as a delicacy on our dinner. We were filled that night.

Tt was a chilly bone cracking night. San YuiBeng was located beneath the alley of snow mountain of MeiLi and barracked by surrounding mountains. In exhaustion of a full day hiking, we snug as a bug. It was a slow morning before proceeding to Xia YuiBeng & then the tibetan sacred waterfall - ShenPu. Every corner in YuiBeng was overshadowed by grand MeiLi. The beauty of this place was not lingering on the marvelous of snow capped mountain view. It is always the simplicity of life in this place. Often times, things caught into eyes were the act of the locals to nature. Such as the diversion of the streams on a hollowed tree trunks; A colorful daisy flowers grown on corners that go unnoticed. The live stocks were running freely. An artistical fencing by stackable pieces of stones and dried branches. Houses were built in traditional Tibetan Lego style. Resources were limited and demand went in basic at this part of the world. Yet the cultures were conserved intact.
ShenPu was another 18kms+ away fr San YuiBeng. We persisted in curiosity. The forest-like path was in tranquil with occasional pilgrims passed-by. Every foot-steps taken was heavier as the uphill path was decorated by lots of little Tibetan blessing flags. Pagoda alike stacked stones were seen all over the path, particularly along the riverbank. It made an impressive man made artifact. The feeling was profound as we closing in. A few hundreds feets of waterfall dropped onto a black-grayish pebble stones plate before streaming into torrential white river. That was where ShenPu located, where a plate of 60' wide x 80' long. Pilgrims would circulate 3 times in clockwise for spiritual cleansing and rejuvenated in the washout of the glacier water.
The waterfall would have flushed the whole plate during late spring when tempt raises. But it was now turning autumn with fewer intensity. Yet, Ruff was miserablely trembling while both arms held together moving in half of foot step pace to embrace the quest. I entered the realm skeptically but came out with a refreshing face. It was absolutely chilling experience down to toe!

To completely experience the local cultures and surrounding ambient, it required at least a duration of 20-day for that journey. If ever there were a revisit chance, I would press it on all the way on that scenic highway 214, which ends to the capital of Tibet, Lasak. Life is such a long journey, there are always another destination to wander around when the final bus stop reached. This journey painted a colorful page on my chapter and a dream that vividly flashes for many years ahead.

*cost = about RM2000+ for 14D13N
*transportation =RM1100(round trip MAS)
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